Bathroom Vanities Davie, FL

We take bathroom vanities from $2,500, and that one is ours: a floor rather than an estimate. It buys a vanity and not a bathroom, which is the part worth reading twice. Inside it are the cabinet, the top, the bowl, the faucet fitted and the reconnection to the supply and drain where they already sit. Outside it are moving a drain or a water line, any larger plumbing change, relocating the vent, shower or tub work, the floor, and a full bathroom remodel, each of which is priced on its own. Separately, the published band for a vanity installed runs $1,500 to $7,000, and that range describes three different purchases rather than a price anybody is quoting you. A stock unit dropped onto the supply and drain you already have sits near the bottom. A cabinet built to your opening, with a stone top, an undermount bowl and chosen hardware, sits at the top. Our floor sits above the bottom of that band on purpose, because a floor says which jobs we take and a band says what the work costs wherever it is sold. Two things push a job up the band faster than the cabinet does: a fabricated stone top instead of a molded one, and any change to where the drain sits.

Under a day, as long as it is a conventional replacement: the new unit lands where the old one sat and neither the supply nor the drain moves. Anything made to size, or any change to the pipes, runs past that. The second number surprises people more. A vanity built to your opening carries a lead time of six to twelve weeks before anybody arrives, and your bathroom works normally throughout, because nothing comes out until the new unit is finished. A crew that pulls yours first and orders after has handed you weeks of a pipe sticking out of the floor.

That is not ours to answer for your house, and a contractor who settles it in one sentence over the phone is guessing. The determination belongs to the Town of Davie Building Division, case by case, under Florida Building Code 104.1. Where the line generally falls is this. Swapping a unit into the same footprint without touching the supply or the drain sits at the lightest end. Relocating the drain, opening the wall for a wall-hung cabinet, or adding electrical for a lighted mirror moves you the other way. What your project needs gets identified at the measurement and appears in the written estimate, with its cost, before you approve anything.

There is less of a standard than the question assumes, and that is the useful answer. Vanities run shorter and shallower than kitchen base cabinets, and inside that there are two heights in circulation: the lower one builders installed through the seventies and eighties, still sitting in most original Davie bathrooms, and a taller one closer to kitchen counter height. Neither is correct. What settles it is who uses the bathroom and which bowl you want, since a vessel bowl sits on top of the counter and adds its own height. We measure your wall, your door swing and your clearance to the toilet, because a vanity chosen off a size chart is a vanity that blocks a door.

You can, and people do, but three things have to be worked around. A kitchen base cabinet is deeper and taller, so in a small bathroom it eats floor you cannot spare and puts the bowl higher than most people want. The plumbing is the real labor: the back and the floor of the box get notched for the supply lines and the drain, and any drawer crossing the trap is given up or rebuilt around it. And the box was made for a drier room than the one you are putting it in. Having the cabinet built to the opening in the same materials gets you the same look without fighting a box drawn for somewhere else.

The material question is really about the cut edges, not the face. Particleboard and MDF are fine panels until an unsealed edge sits in a humid room for a decade, and in a vanity the worst edge is the one you never see: the bottom of the box, where the drain passes through and where a slow weep from a shutoff valve lands. Plywood boxes and solid wood face frames cost more and they last here in a way the carton grades do not. Whatever you buy, two details decide the outcome as much as the material: whether the cut edges are sealed, and whether the bathroom actually vents. A sealed plywood box in a room with a fan nobody runs still fails, only slower.

Cheaper on the receipt, almost always the shelf. Cheaper over the life of the bathroom, it turns on one thing: whether your opening is a catalog size. If the wall matches a stock width and you are content with a single shelf under the trap, a stock unit is a good buy and we will install one without trying to talk you up. If the opening is an odd width, you are choosing between a filler strip beside a brand new cabinet and losing usable inches, and that gap is the part people regret. Building it also lets you pick what the box is made of, which in this room is what decides how long it lasts.